Supplement Survey:
Creatine

by: Tony Veltri

Power equals progress in steep bouldering.  The ability to throw a bit farther or crank a bit harder is something that would help anyone on a desperate send attempt.  There really is no substitute for hard work, and in the long run, a training program focusing on problem-specific moves will probably see you to the top of your prize problem.  Dietary supplements have long been used by athletes to give enhance performance and reduce recovery time.  Recently, Creatine Monohydrate (creatine) has received press for its ability to enhance muscular power. 
Creatine is a naturally occurring amino acid which is made in the liver and stored in muscle fibers. Normally creatine is found in beef and other red meats, however, some studies have indicated that meat from "farmed" beef cattle is much lower in creatine levels than free-range cattle..  The energy your body uses to make a burly throw or a viscous lock off is called Adenosine Triphosphate or ATP.  After ATP is used to make energy, it is converted to a lower energy form called Adenosine Diphosphate (ADP).  Yeah, well what does that have to do with creatine?  Well, you see creatine is used by your body to speed the conversion of low-energy ADP into high-energy ATP.  Your body requires about 2 grams of creatine per day.  Creatine "loading" is the practice of increasing the level of creatine in the body by up to ten times the normal amount.  In a perfect world, with no side effects, an increase in your creatine level would:

  1. Increase Muscle Volume
  2. Increase Power
  3. Delay Fatigue

However, In order to increase muscle volume and give your muscle cells the water they need to work with the higher amount of creatine, an increased (very increased)amount of water intake is needed.  Some side effects of creatine include:

  1. An increase in body mass;  you may gain some weight as a result of increased water stored in your muscles
  2. If you do not hydrate properly, you may experience horrible cramping.
  3. Once you stop your creatine loading, your body will most likely return to its former state.
  4. Long term effects; intensive creatine research has really only been initiated in the past 10 years.  No one knows what the long term effects may be but some postulate that excessive use may cause the body to stop producing creatine naturally.
  5. Most of the studies on creatine do not involve boulderers or climbers, but rather football players, weightlifters, etc.

So then, as you can see, creatine may not be for everyone (I can't really even decide if it is right for me).  Individuals who do not consume large amounts of red meat may wish to consider creatine (in small doses) as a dietary supplement rather than as a performance enhancer.  Click here for the results of our informal survey.  Hopefully, this will give everyone a little bit more information on the benefits and pitfalls of creatine that are relative to bouldering.

Please note: newenglandbouldering.com does not condone the use of creatine, and has provide this article for informative purposes only.

Click here for the results of our informal survey.

In some athletes, the use of creatine has dramatically increased power.  But at what cost?