In the Ring with Heavyweights
by Lee Soares

Lee Soares in the ring with Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, and Obe Carrion.

     As far back as I can remember climbing has been a way of life. From trees in the backyard to toproping steel bridges, it's always been there. Not until about five years ago when I became a boulderer did  the possibilities of movement on rock begin to unfold. It seemed each time I climbed my visions of what was possible expanded.

     Recently, I was invited to the Gunks for the video release of Josh Lowell's Rampage, as were many other strong climbers from New England including Luke Parady, Dave Graham, and Brett Myers, just to name a few. Knowing other climbing icons like Chris Sharma and Obe Carrion would be present only sweetened the pot. I was highly motivated, if not a little intimidated, by the presence of such heavyweights. What would they be like and would they even want a "weaker" climber around.

     We all me at Rock & Snow on Saturday night for the first screening of Rampage. The place was packed to capacity. The premiere made everyone swell with anticipation of the next day's bouldering session, myself included. The premiere was followed by a party to celebrate at which time I was able to peel away the layers of doubt I had.
     I quickly realized that my fears were irrational and that Chris, like everyone else, was just a man. One with views and opinions not unlike my own. Most things that we discussed weren't even about climbing but everyday events that occur in all our lives. Friendship and trust soon replaced insecurity and doubt. We both knew a person's worth is not in their physical power but in their personal power and attitude. The party continued late into the night well after I decided to get some rest in the front seat of my car.
     I woke to a beautiful sunny day and crisp temperatures perfect for bouldering. Surprisingly, everyone awoke quickly and we were off for coffee and the boulders. The New England crew, the locals, and the superstars all met at the popular Outbreak Boulder at Peter's Kill. While resting between attempts on a classic, I watched the boys "warm up" on Little Hercules, a V8 crimpfest that got me psyched to send what I was working on.

     After warming up, we headed to the Project Area. Soon Chris, Obe, Dave, Luke, and myself were eyeing a line that looked impossible to me. Chris, apparently, was never taught the meaning of the word. The problem took a beautiful rail that overhung 45 degrees up and left to a sketchy topout. Curves, subtleties, and imperfections became holds allowing vertical movement, and after a half-dozen attempts the line was now an established problem. Dave quickly repeated it, followed closely by Luke for the third ascent. No name, no grade, just an awesome problem on a cool boulder.

     After a day of climbing established problems, we ran into Ivan Greene who talked Dave into trying his new testpiece, the Cohiba linkup, which he graded V12. Even after two full days of climbing, Dave snapped this problem off in less than 30 minutes. Dave was quick to give Ivan a reality check by downgrading it to V10, and make the rest of us New Englanders proud he lives in our neighborhood.


Ivan bouldering on the Drug Boulder.


Dave sending the Cohiba link up.

     So, next time you're out bouldering with the heavyweights, don't be afraid to drop you guard, after all they're just like you and me.