An Interview with Kurt Smith
Kurt "The General" Smith and Elaina Arenz recently passed through Rhode Island during an extended slide show/climbing trip. The locals gave them the grand tour of Lincoln Woods over the course of two days, during which they both sent many classic problems, some of which are pictured below. Kurt graciously provided newenglandbouldering.com with the following interview:
What do you think of the rise in popularity of bouldering?
"Bouldering has always been popular. The hardest problems
in the valley were done long before those grades were done on the lead. But
it has gotten bigger-more focused. I think that stems from the growth of
gyms climbers venturing out first to the boulders, if they have that resource.
Then creative marketing by the magazines and companies have brought in more
players. Climbing has always been about freedom and bouldering allows you
to send with the least amount of clutter. Equipment costs a lot of cash and
bouldering is the cheap way to climb....For me it has always been my quick
fix. I started bouldering when I started climbing 20 years ago. This was
the best way to ditch school and get to learning the rocks the quickest....I
could boulder 5.12 before i could lead 5.10 back in those early days."
Left: Kurt onsighting Back in the Saddle, V6, at The Horse Cave. Photograph by Elaina Arenz.
What did you think about the bouldering at Lincoln Woods?
"I liked Lincoln Woods a lot. Being so close to the city
makes it semi-ghetto, but in a good way. All that really matters is that
the rock is quality, the problems concentrated, and there is lots of hard
shit. The temps were good for june and we had a blast. I don't know any of
the names, but we sent some good shit. The locals were supportive and that
is key. Nothing worse than going to an area and getting vibed by the crew.
We also had a blast at the Gunks, Coopers Rock, WV and Boone, NC. Check out
those places, too."
Right: Kurt sending Rump to Jump, V7, at The Cave. Photograph by Joe McLoughlin.
Have you accomplished all of your climbing goals?
"No, I will never accomplish all of my goals because
my body will only go so far and my list of goals are just one big ball of
energy inside that is constantly just doing what we like: bolting. Not always
the big numbers, but classic lines that wait for second ascents."
Left: Kurt onsighting Due Diligence, V6, on The Tuolomne boulder. Photograph by Joe McLoughlin.
"What motivates me is energy from my partners, a desire for more lines than I can ever find, and a passion for adventure with suffering. Projects keep me moving forwards never back."
Right: Elaina Arenz sending Iron Cross, V4, on The Iron Cross boulder. Photograph by Kurt Smith.
What is your favorite climbing area?
"My favorite climbing areas are many. But where I feel
the most passion and energy for would obviously be Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Why? Because of the vast amount of endless bigwall routes (my favorite) and
the most generous people in Hidalgo that have welcomed climbers to their
world. Killer winter temps combined with cheap food and beer makes this the
place for the wayward gringo."
Left: Kurt on Heart of Glass, V4, on The Heart Boulder. Photograph by Elaina Arenz.
| Tell us about your Y2K bash in Mexico. "The Y2K gringo disco has been my brainstorm for five years. It has taken me that long to get my act together, buy a chunk of land, form a partnership with Mel Gutierrez ,and develop the land into a campground and casitas to rent. Next is the party: a two day event with clinics and trail work during the day, slide shows, charity raffle, and all night new years rave to wrap it up. DJ Mak will be spinning all night and all the proceeds from the charity raffle will go to the poor people in hidalgo- a great gesture to start the new millennium." If you want the full spray go to www.potrerochico.com! |
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