Never Eat Yellow Snow-And 17 More Tips For Bouldering Beginners.... from a beginner
by Barney Waters

1) There's chalk on the V0's, V1's and V2's and it can't all be mine. Other people climb low grades too. It's nothing to be ashamed of, hell last season I fell off 'Zig Zag Crack'. There, I said it.


Sarah Garlick on Zig Zag Crack at Rumney, NH. Photograph by Dave Jusseaume.

2) A crashpad's a good investment to avoid injury, equally important is that a pad makes you look professional.

3) The climbing 'community' rarely communes. My first two trips to Lincoln Woods, both perfect fall days, I saw one other boulderer all day. And that ain't bad.

4) Boulderers do pull up's to pull down, use underclings on overhangs and do sitdown starts to layback cracks. They have no friends, lots of problems and usually have their fingers in other people's pockets. Oh, and lots of lingo.

5) The climbers I've run into at the boulders and the crag are nothing like those on the message board. Then again, the people from the message board I've run into at the boulders are nothing like they are on the message board.

6) Don't underestimate V9's and V10's. Not that you would, but don't even think they are possible unless you have been chosen by the Creator. There are more features on an elevator door.

7) Most mantels are mental. Meaning if they were 3 feet off the ground my grandmother could get up them. Put that same movement at the top of a reasonably high boulder and you're hanging there sweating bullets, building up the balls to pull over what is essentially like climbing into bed.

8) Mental focus can also get you at least 6 inches higher on a dyno than strength alone.

9) There are ethics (ahem, rules) in climbing and bouldering. Generally speaking they seem to vary by area, are unwritten, open to interpretation and often contradictory to each other. They are created and imposed by a militant few who have no real right to tell you what to do or how to do it. My advice however is to do exactly what they say. Failure to do so could result in them setting fire to your car, strangling your dog and peppering your favourite boulder with machine gun fire. These are the type of people who's children become gothics.

10) People who know about great boulders don't really want you to go there.

11) Slopers are very bad things. Kind of like the hottest chick in your neighborhood. You know that even if you get your hands onto it you wont be able to hold on for long. When you inevitably cant hold on for any longer your friends will be lining up to have a go, regardless of any loss you may feel.

12) Slopers require practice as they are a different breed of hold. The only good thing about slopers is that once you've worked hard on them you can basically go on a crime wave, confident that any FBI fingerprinting will yield nothing.


Lee Soares sticking the evil sloper.
Photograph by Joe McLoughlin.

13) Never try and explain to people what bouldering is and why you do it. Just tell them you're going to play golf, it's a lot easier and they wont think you're a weirdo after you've left. Do not under any circumstances address traverses.

14) Sit down starts are a ridiculous concept. Until you do one.

15) The best bouldering place in America apparently is Hueco Tanks in Texas. It appears that the only way to find out if it is open is to actually go there. No one really knows if it's open or not, and if they do, they ain't saying.

16) The best bouldering place in the world apparently is Fontainebleau in France. It's definitely open but is full of French people.

17) Graffiti was founded on the concept of fame. Kids could 'tag' high visibility areas, such as subway stations, to build a reputation and notoriety. Tagging trains allowed their name to spread to outlying neighbourhoods and beyond, extending their fame which was the ultimate driving force. Graffiti artists in the Lincoln Woods area have completely missed this point.


Dave Antaya tries to avoid the graffiti at Lincoln Woods. Photograph by Joe McLoughlin.

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