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Winter Bouldering, how
cold is too cold?
by Joe McLoughlin |
Winter bouldering is not for everyone; your feet and hands can get cold,
your fingers can hurt like hell, and the melting snow can make everything
soaking wet. That being said, I personally much prefer bouldering in the
winter over any other time of year. The friction is perfect in the lower
temperatures, the sun is low in the sky and sharp, and there is almost no
need for chalk. The inherent nature of bouldering, short routes, frequent
attempts, and quick returns to the ground, allow for climbing in colder
temperatures than sport climbing or trad climbing. Noone wants to stand around
stomping your feet while you partner works a move or endure a freezing
cold belay on a wind swept ledge (unless you are into ice climbing, which
is a whole different level of suffering).
If you haven't clicked to another page by now, winter bouldering may be for
you. The following tips will help you better enjoy a cold, crisp day of winter
bouldering: |
The author practicing what he preaches on the
Heart Boulder at Lincoln Woods. Photograph by John McLean. |
1. Keep your feet warm!
The single most important thing to do is to make sure your feet stay
warm. Your feet are the hardest to get warm once they get cold. Therefore,
how you start out is key. As you are driving to the boulders, place your
climbing shoes on the dashboard or on the floor near a heating vent, and
crank the heat up. Get your shoes toasty warm. The only drawback to this
is if your shoes stink, so will your car. Once you get to the boulders, place
your shoes inside your jacket whenever you are not wearing them. This will
keep them warm at all times.
2. Invest in microfleece
The most important pieces of clothing are microfleece pants and a microfleece
shirt. These items will keep you nice and warm, and will not let you get
cold if you work up a sweat. |
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3. Wear a really warm jacket
This may seem obvious, but err on the side of caution here: wear the warmest
jacket you own, preferably down. This is to keep you warm between problems
and to keep your shoes warm as described above.
4. Bring a thermos of hot tea, coffee, or cocoa
This serves two purposes: 1. there is nothing better than a nice hot drink
on a cold day, and 2. the hot liquid works wonders for warming up frozen
hands. Pour a cup of the hot beverage, and just hold the cup (drinking
it is optional).
5. Find a south facing boulder or a boulder out of the wind
This again may seem obvious, but it is very important. The south faces of
boulders are always sunny. There can be a 10 degree difference between the
north and south faces of a boulder. This benefit really becomes apparent
while bouldering. When sport or trad climbing, most cliffs only face one
direction. With bouldering, you can usually climb on any side of a boulder,
and can find the sunny and/or sheltered side.
6. Bring a tarp
This only applies if there is snow on the ground. A good 8'x10' tarp can
provide a nice dry area to shoe up and spot, keeping your shoes ready for
sending. We sometimes will clear the snow off of the tops of south-facing
boulders and around the landings, to allow for climbing on sunny days.
7. Place a handwarmer in your chalkbag
This can make the difference for some people, and definitely increases the
comforting factor of working your hands into the chalkbag. |
If all this sounds like a little too much, then head to your local gym. I
won't be there to crowd it up. However, if you are still interested in winter
bouldering, try these tips and don't be afraid to make some modifications.
These tips have all been gained through painful experience and trial and
error. If you come up with something that works for you, send us an
e-mail and we will add
it to the list.
Right: Brett Myers warming up on the Iron Cross
Boulder at Lincoln Woods. Staff Photograph. |
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Viewer Comments
We have received many comments and suggestions about making winter bouldering
more enjoyable. An obvious omission on our part, someone wrote in, "like
your mom always said...put on your hat. You probably didn't feel the need
to mention this because it is a fact that every boulderer wears a hat any
time they are wearing underwear. For example, in a 105 degree gym with no
shirt on." The oddest (but perhaps most effective) recommendation we
received, "chili peppers....not the hot new shoes, but the real thing..
habeneros, locotos, jalepenos and ceyenne really do the trick. Eat them,
rub dry ceyenne into sock, into shoes, wherever the skin hits the cold air.
The deal is the increase in circulation. Eating peppers before going out
will help with circulation throughout the body for several hours. I would
avoid chilis in the chalkbag, however, they add nothing to the friction and
if the fine dust gets in your eyes you are S.O.L." Finally, one local boulderer
wrote in that he uses toe heaters in his climbing shoes; however, he wrote
back a few days later that they actually made his feet too hot. |
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