|
|
Spotting
by Lee Soares |
"Hey Lee," Dave said.
"Come here, Sandy won't try this problem without you spotting," he yelled.
Being 6' 4" and 190 pounds, one would think I would
automatically be a good spotter. But what I believe is the reason for my
spotting reputation is the awareness I bring to the game. Just as I have
improved in my abilities to climb, my spotting abilities have also grown.
When someone sends a problem because they knew I wouldn't let them get hurt,
even at the expense of my own safety, it feels as good as if I sent it myself.
I would like to share my knowledge with others in the
hopes that someone will save someone from serious injury while bouldering.
When I go bouldering one thing that concerns me is when I see a climber spotted
by 4 or 5 other climbers all with raised hand by not with raised awareness.
Most of the time in this case, the climber would be lucky to get slapped
on the ass, let alone be kept out of trouble.
In this situation, someone should be designated as a
primary spotter. The one who will actually make first contact with the falling
climber. This way noone assumes the other guy is doing it. Everyone else
is secondary, providing support for the spotter who may lose his balance
or for the climber from rolling off the crash pad on impact. |
Tony Veltri providing Dave Jusseaume with a good spot. Photograph by Joe
McLoughlin. |
Analyzing the angle of all the holds and which direction
they will be pulled on is important. For example, if someone is on a layback
or a sidepull, they are more likely to fall sideways or straight down as
opposed to out and into your arms. You may have to move around with the climber
instead of just standing behind the crashpad. Go over the problem first,
looking for areas where the fall may be awkward.
A lot of times a climber will place the crashpad beneath
the most difficult moves, but the most dangerous fall may occur on easier
ground. When a climber falls onto the crashpad, the spotter's job is to guide
the falling climber onto the pad, and to keep them from falling over. On
unprotected ground, it is much more important to dissipate as much force
as possible to lessen the blow the falling climber will take. What you can
do in this case is literally grab the falling climber around the waist or
under the armpits and step back as you grab them, effectively reducing the
impact to the falling climber. |
|
I've had people ask me, "Where were my feet when I fell?"
I respond with, "I don't know I was watching your back." It is the climbers
responsibility to know where his appendages are not the spotters. The spotters
focus should always be on the climbers center of gravity, not a hand or foot.
While spotting, try not to point to holds or watch for beta. The center of
gravity never lies, if its falling you'll know it.
Communication is key. If someone asks you for a spot
and you don't feel comfortable that you can keep them safe, tell them. Don't
let the climber go up with a false sense of confidence. It puts you both
in danger.
If you are spotting someone twice your size, your main
responsibility is to protect the head and neck area. In this case, it should
be communicated that you will let the falling climber hit the pad or the
ground, and then protect them from falling over. Do your best to prevent
injury, even if it means ripping that stylish new T-shirt.
So, remember the title of "Best Spotter in the World"
is always up for grabs. If you stay aware and protect the climber, you too
may one day be referred to as the "human rope." |
 |
For more
information:
This book, by John Sherman, provides an excellent section on spotting and
analyzing fall angles. Additionally, it provides tons of information on all
aspects of bouldering. This is one book every boulderer should
own. Click here to buy this book! |
|
|
