Wheel of Fortune

by Lee Soares

I am always on the look out for my weakest link, that one thing that will cause failure on a consistent basis. By being perceptive and listening to your body, you can reveal this weakest link to yourself. Even a small change in your weaker areas, will help greatly with overall climbing skills. Although it often seems like a loss of grip is the reason for falling, many things may have contributed to it as you climb.

Climbing on steep, overhanging walls requires more than just strong fingers; it also requires a strong body. The midsection, or core muscles, play a huge role in maintaining your alignment with holds on a steep wall. If these muscles are weak, they will cause your center of gravity to fall away from the wall. As your center of gravity begins to fall away, it creates an outward pull which causes the holds you're on to feel less and less positive. The stronger your core muscles are, the easier it is to hold yourself close to the wall on steep climbs.

I would like to introduce you to an exercise that has helped me send one recent project. And, yes it was steep!

The ab wheel is one of the best exercises for increasing core muscle strength, and at under $10.00, it may be one of the cheapest. The ab wheel is painfully simple, it looks like a wagon wheels with a grip on each side. The exercise is beneficial for climbers for two reasons. One, it is sport specific, which means it closely mimics movements actually used in climbing. Two, it engages all of the muscles of the midsection including the hip flexors and extensors, the erector spinae group which move and support the spine, and the abdominal group which do much of the work not only in climbing but in day to day activities as well. In fact, there are few things we do that are not assisted by these groups of muscles. Good body tension and high stepping well are to benefits that apply to climbing.

The Workout
If you are interested in a coverboy six pack, then read no further. This is not a fat burning exercise which is what you would need to "see" your abdominal muscles. This is an exercise to increase strength and recruitment of inactive muscle fibers allowing you to maintain that all important alignment with the wall and save grip strength.

As with all strength training exercises a good warmup is crucial for reducing injury and allowing your muscles and joints to function properly. Take the time to stretch your major muscles and back as well.

If you have a history of back pain or shoulder problems, get cleared by a doctor before beginning this workout. Take it slow at first and see how you feel the next day before doing more than what is recommended.

Start with a hand on each grip and kneel down with both knees together on the floor. Lock your arms and hold the wheel at your knees on the floor. Slowly roll the wheel out and away from your knees and continue going forward until your hands are beyond your head. Do not touch the floor, your body should be 3-6 inches above the floor. Return to the starting position by pulling in with your abdominal muscles and arching your back. Keep your arms straight and use your core muscles to return to the starting position again. Breathe in at the start and exhale on the way down. 7-10 repetitions equal one set. Do two sets, twice a week for 4-6 weeks. If you find it easy to do 7-10 reps go a bit slower and hold the extended position for a 3 count. Talk about a lockoff! If its still easy, then core strength is not your weakness. Go campus.

The ab wheel can be purchased at most sporting goods stores as well as Walmart. Other exercises useful for building core muscle strength are the Pilate's Method, medicine ball exercises, and hanging leg lifts.

Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. newenglandbouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.
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