How Big are Your Balls?

by Lee Soares

In an effort to get stronger, many climbers choose to focus on the muscles that fuel our movements and in doing so neglect the opposing muscles that balance the joints. This is usually the case in elbow tendonitis, the most common debilitating injury in the climbing community.

I have been climbing for over ten years and consider myself very fortunate to stay free of this plague. Over the past four years, I have made it a priority to specifically train those opposing muscle groups throughout the body. A total body workout is more than the intention of this article, but I would like to share one exercise that will help balance the often-neglected extensor muscles on the top of the forearm.

Many of you may be familiar with the standard Chinese exercise balls, but few are aware of the many benefits they offer. From as far back as the 1300s, the Chinese have believed that they can relieve hypertension and prolong life. I cannot attest to these benefits, but I do know they pump the tops of my forearms and hands like no other exercise. Unlike dumbbells or bungee cords where the hand stays tensed, spinning the balls allows the hand to extend and contract with the muscles being worked allowing for increased blood flow to the hand. This increased blood flow does wonders for the connective tissue throughout the arm, as well as helps to increase endurance.

The balls I use range from 1½" to 3½" in diameter. The large balls are stone and weigh 2 pounds each. Rotating these usually stops before one full minute passes. Big pump! The balls should be solid metals to get some good resistance. They can be rotated either clockwise or counter-clockwise, touching or without touching. The important thing is to not allow the balls to chatter or strike each other. You may need to really on concentrate on these but it will carry over and help in other areas in life. Within a few weeks the fluidity of the exercise will increase as conscience thought over how to move the hands and fingers becomes ingrained in the muscle memory. Start off with 15-20 minutes working each hand equally. Gradually, increase the amount of time spent to 30-45 minutes a few times per week. Remember, I am not a doctor, I only play one on TV. The purpose of this exercise is to help the muscles in the arm, although other benefits may be achieved.

Franklin currently has a set of balls they sell in a convenient mesh bag that fits easily into any boulderer's bag. These are the small size in the photo. Martial arts suppliers often carry the larger size and the biggest ones in the photo are solid stone and were found at a Pier I Imports. Be creative, you can also use golf balls, baseballs, or fruit, which can be found on any roadtrip.

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