In an effort to get stronger, many climbers choose to focus on the muscles
that fuel our movements and in doing so neglect the opposing muscles that
balance the joints. This is usually the case in elbow tendonitis, the most
common debilitating injury in the climbing community.
I have been climbing for over ten years and consider myself very fortunate
to stay free of this plague. Over the past four years, I have made it a priority
to specifically train those opposing muscle groups throughout the body. A
total body workout is more than the intention of this article, but I would
like to share one exercise that will help balance the often-neglected extensor
muscles on the top of the forearm.
Many of you may be familiar with the standard Chinese exercise balls, but
few are aware of the many benefits they offer. From as far back as the 1300s,
the Chinese have believed that they can relieve hypertension and prolong
life. I cannot attest to these benefits, but I do know they pump the tops
of my forearms and hands like no other exercise. Unlike dumbbells or bungee
cords where the hand stays tensed, spinning the balls allows the hand to
extend and contract with the muscles being worked allowing for increased
blood flow to the hand. This increased blood flow does wonders for the connective
tissue throughout the arm, as well as helps to increase endurance.
The balls I use range from 1½" to 3½" in diameter. The large balls
are stone and weigh 2 pounds each. Rotating these usually stops before one
full minute passes. Big pump! The balls should be solid metals to get some
good resistance. They can be rotated either clockwise or counter-clockwise,
touching or without touching. The important thing is to not allow the balls
to chatter or strike each other. You may need to really on concentrate on
these but it will carry over and help in other areas in life. Within a few
weeks the fluidity of the exercise will increase as conscience thought over
how to move the hands and fingers becomes ingrained in the muscle memory.
Start off with 15-20 minutes working each hand equally. Gradually, increase
the amount of time spent to 30-45 minutes a few times per week. Remember,
I am not a doctor, I only play one on TV. The purpose of this exercise is
to help the muscles in the arm, although other benefits may be achieved. |