Circuit Training

by Ken Majka

I was introduced to the concept of circuit training after my tall friend Pete Ward got back from Fontainebleau. I had learned about circuits in the mags but wasn't sure what they entailed. It turns out circuiting boulder problems can mean doing preselected problems that follow a general trend such as height, difficulty, or style. They are often marked with paint or mentioned in a guide. Circuiting can also mean going out and sending as many problems as you can in a single session.

Painted circuits, like the ones that exist in Font, would create an access nightmare here in New England. The only documented circuits that I am aware of in the North East are a killer multi problem romp put up by Dr. Chris in Great Barrington, a much gentler warm up tour at Farley, and a rumored 100 problem circuit at Lincoln Woods. Due to the lack of recognizable circuits in New England, it is usually easier to create your own.

This is where the fun begins. Pick problems that you have done and feel comfortable on. It doesn't matter how hard they are, although a few problems in the middle of your session should be a little challenging. On these problems, you will make the biggest gains in style and fluidity. As always, start easy, warming up on at least ten problems that you could boulder in your sneakers with a bad hangover. Only, instead of running up them and clobbering them because they are so easy, focus on your technique. Experiment with subtle foot positions and weight shifts. This is the key to successful circuit training. The trend was started by John Gill, who wouldn't consider a problem finished until he ascended the problem in perfect style. The great thing about practicing new techniques on easier problems is that there is no pressure to get to the top. You already have! So instead of belly flopping that mantle like you did on your first ascent (so you wouldn't blow it) try mantling it in fine style. If you fall, no biggie, try it again.

Circuiting, in my book, can also involve doing a single problem over and over, allowing you to wire in the moves. If you practice this long enough, you will have problems near your limit wired and repeatable on command. This is a great confidence booster. It also adds to the repertoire of moves that your body can call upon instinctively. Although these problems should feel difficult, they should not be at your limit. If you get to a problem that you can normally do but for some reason doesn't feel right, move on. The purpose of this exercise isn't to resolve sequences you already know in an effort to reach the top. The goal is to make these sequences feel like second nature and to promote an optimistic confident "vibe". Repeated falling does not accomplish this.

When climbing with friends, be careful not to get suckered into doing problems that are out of your circuiting comfort level. For example, my buddy Walter includes a problem Spare Change in his warm up circuit. Spare Change involves a crimpy V8 dead point. He makes it look easy. It isn't, at least not for me! Sure, I've done the problem a few times, but I have to try pretty hard to snag that dead point. So I basically walk right by it. I might go back to it later in the day depending on how I feel. The hope being that I could wire the move and be able to incorporate it into my circuit routine. It is important to remember your motives for trying a problem. Sending is not the priority; you already have. Instead you are interested in sending it in better style, really getting to know the movements.

Here are a couple of ideas when creating a circuit for yourself:

- Start easy. Warm up and work into harder moves.

- Listen to your body. Challenge yourself, try something new (or different), but if it doesn't work for you, don't let it stress you out. Just because you included a problem last time and it felt easy doesn't mean you have to throw yourself at it until you get it every time you go out.

- It's all about style. Focus on every bit of advice you've heard over the years. Use your feet, don't over grip, climb relaxed etc. Or focus on one specific weakness of yours on every problem. Are you over gripping all the holds?

- Come up with themes for the day. Try to do problems that work a specific movement or mentality. Do twenty highballs in a day to get your head together, or pick problems with a dyno in them to tune in your targeting.

- Raining? Head to the gym and do all of the problems that are a few grades below your limit.

- Pick a few "project" problems for the middle of your circuit. These are problems that you have already climbed. These should be problems that you can do, just not all the time. Working on them, while maintaining your circuiting mindset, will eventually make them problems you can do every day. Remember, don't get frustrated if you can't do the moves on these problems.

- Make sure you are getting to the top of a lot of boulders. If you aren't, you might be attempting problems that are too difficult for your current routine.

- Have fun! If you are not having fun it will feel like training.

Constantly remind yourself that fluidity and style are the most important objectives. Given enough climbing on familiar problems you will be sending everything.