Daggett Rock
Phillips, Maine
by Lee Soares

As climbers, we often day dream of that perfect piece of stone, one that has it "all." Each of us has their own definition of "all" but for me, its an even mix of hard and subtle, with a little bit of mental to make the whole thing interesting. I found this even mix on a cool weekend in October at a place called Daggett Rock.

Partially dug out by curious farmers over 100 years ago, this huge erratic split into three equal pieces and offers a full spectrum of problems, from easy laybacks that take you 30 feet off the deck to crimpy power problems.

Described by one local man as "something from outer space," Daggett Rock and the land it sits on were donated to the Town of Phillips by the Daggett family about 80 years ago. From all sides, this boulder reveals beautiful lines. The first I took was a slab layback that reminded me of a sleeping dinosaur. I called this problem Bronto Burger, which does not even make the lower end of the V-scale, but deserves all of its three stars.

I climbed three more problems that check in from V1 to V4. With public access for over 100 years, I don't dare claim any first ascents, but one can always hope. With so many cracks, laybacks, and slopers, I could have bouldered here for days, but the grind was calling me back to Massachusetts.

A creative top-roper could set up a belay with plenty of webbing, so please don't even think of placing any bolts and scarring this wonderful piece of granite "from outer space." If you have any info on Daggett Rock or are interested in making a trip here, please e-mail us here at NewEnglandBouldering.com.