You may not have heard of Josh Spear, but chances are you will. At 16, Josh is on the verge of becoming the next teen wonder. He has travelled extensively throughout the U.S. and has been to Fontainebleau. He recently finished 5th at Cave Rave III against many of New England's best boulderers. Josh has done some hard first ascents at Great Barrington and in the Adirondacks.

Left: Josh on The Ill Egg at Great Barrington, MA. Photograph by Dan Mahoney.

First off, how old are you and how long have you been climbing?
I'm 16 and I've been climbing since I was 11 years old.

You seem to be quite the world traveller for your age, what areas have you visited and which one is your favorite?
Wow. My favorite area. My first "big trip" was the Vegas/Josh/Bishop drive and that was AWESOME. A few years ago. I'm definately going back there real soon. All the areas in Colorado; Camp Dick, and the Rocky Mountain areas- Chaos and Emerald lake are beautiful and the rock quality is perfect. Font. Thats like all I need to say, I didn't get much time there at all, but Font. Oh my god Fontinbleau. I only saw like 1/10th of the bouldering and I am allready in love with the people and place.

What do your parents think about climbing?
There is no question that both my parents are physced on my climbing. They love what I am doing, support, respect, admire etc. They are pleased that I have found a passion in life with such a supporting group of people involved. They trust the clibming community like family, I mean they trust who I'm living/climbing/travelling with because they know climbers are basically all good people. I think thats really important.

You compete in the JCCA comps right?
Competed. I'm pretty confident I'm done with that Junior buisness. I've gone to nationals for a few years and, I like what Adam Osterhoff said about that; "sick of little kids running around". I hear you, I really love competitions but I get much more psyched when I'm competing against an all ages group, bigger comps, invitationals, comps with the reallly amazing to see climbers.

Have you had a good experience with the JCCA comps?
They have good intentions, and a majority of my time was agood experience, but I've had a few arguments with the head judges and just got sick of paying $, driving far, and getting a ribbon, and if your lucky a t-shirt (gag).

Where do you see competition climbing going in the next five years?
It's hard to say, since I got into the circuit I definately say bouldering exploded. Like 13 people showed up to the ASCF route nationals this past year. I think the bouldering competitions are just more fun and friendly, even if they are higher stresscomps like the Gorge games or Bouldering Nationals. I hope that more comps get into the High Ball bouldering, like Gorge Games and X-games did. Personally I think those are the coolest to watch, and really fun to compete in.

Any big plans for the future?
Get Strong, send projects outdoors and not put a rope on again until I truely want to. I've got a bizzilion projects around and I just have to keep ticking them one by one, and I've got a lot of trips planned for this year.

What are your favorite problems?
Damn, what a hard question. Green Goddess in Great Barrington is an awsome line, I pretty much do it everytime I go up there, Its just beautiful and has really good moves. Fotowa in Great Barrington, I really liked New Pair of Glasses, I thought that problem was awsome too. Jeez, I think I like all the problems I've done, the new problem that just went up in Great Barrington, Time Shelter, is one of the most unique things I've ever done, it takes like every type of hold, all types of moves, crazy body tention and makes a crazy problem. And of course, outwest, theres a billion awsome lines.

What projects are you working on now?
Sitdown to Fotowa, right now the problem starts standing tiptoe, and there are moves going into it, which are SICK. Like REALLY bad holds. I really want to link that. The front side of the speed boulder, everyline on there I've tried and i'ts been like, wow, these are all friggin harddd. I wanna send everything eventually :)

Do you have any sponsors?
Yeah, Mythic Tech Styles, Megalith, team mom and dad. I haven't been thinking about that stuff to much lately, but I'll hook up the other things soon enough.

Any plans for college?
Um, I have to try and finish high school first, but I have CU boulder pretty much as first choice....I can't stand to go to college on the east coast, I was living out west going to boarding school in Colorado, so most of my friends live out there...

Anything to Add?
Yeah, what are we going to do about this snow people, how are we going to top out our projects like this damnit!!!!!! Big up to you Joe for keeping up an awsome site, resource etc for da boulderers here.

Thanks Josh, good luck on those projects.

Left: Josh on an unnamed problem near Lake Placid, NY. Photograph from the Spear Collection.

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