The 9C Area


Goat Rock

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About the Area:

This is the big one! This cliff just cries out for top-rope. It's off the beaten path, so you get some quiet and seclusion, but it is easy to find. Just take the ring road around the pond to the stop sign, then take a right, you will go around a bend in the road, look to the left for the dirt road with the sign "9c". Take this road to its dead end. When you reach the dead end you will see a clearing on your right, and the Goat Rock! You will notice some boulders on the left before you approach the Goat Rock. These are also good boulders.

There is a large offwidth crack on one side of the boulder. This is a nice large offwidth for any of you masochistic offwidth lovers out there! Other than the offwidth there is a nice, long, traverse at the base of the boulder. A really great endurance workout - especially if you take it both ways a few times.

The rest of the vertical problems are best attempted with a top-rope. This is a very tall boulder. But if you want to do some soloing...

Here is a photo with routes drawn in by Ed Sewall who did some of the first ascents on this cliff:

Route descriptions:

  1. 5.8 Crack

  2. The 5.11, 5.11 (obviously) FA: John "Whitey" McLean, early 1980s

  3. Zero Gravity, 5.11+, FA: Ed Sewall, February 1987

  4. Unknown, 5.9

  5. Latex Sheath, 5.11+, FA: Ed Sewall, 1986 (5a. 5.11 variation)

  6. Unknown, 5.8

  7. Unknown, 5.6

  8. Unknown, 5.9+


There is also a really good route (5.10) that starts on #4 but follows the obvious crack up and right. 


Ed Sewall climbing Zero Gravity at Goat Rock.

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