Updated 4/23/00

Lincoln Woods' Last Great Projects?
Photos and Text by Joe McLoughlin
Many people seem to think that Lincoln Woods is climbed out, nothing new left to do. Now, this is mostly true for anything under V8 or so, but for V9 and up, especially up, there are some gems still waiting to be scored. These problems don't necessarily represent the most aesthetic lines in the park, just the hardest. Some may seem impossible, but V13s can look that way sometimes. As a challenge to the locals and maybe a carrot to those contemplating a visit, here are some of some of these gems, with full beta. And don't worry, if you send all of these, we got more. Click on the photos for larger versions.

The Tombstone Boulder

The Tombstone boulder is located to the right of the 146 park entrance. Once you turn right, drive about 50 yards and you can't miss it on the left. You can park about 20 feet from these two projects. These projects are located on the right end of the tall, intimidating face above the slab landing. Both have good landings, just be sure to cover up the rocks that protrude from the ground. The left project is a huge dyno from a standing start off of a crimp underling/sidepull for the left and a micro crimp for the right. Dave Graham gave this a bunch of attempts, and Brett Myers is the only one to stick the dyno. However, the crux is probably matching on the sloper at the lip. Has really small feet and some latex paint graffiti which should probably be removed.

Lee Soares has done a jump-start double dyno to the sloper and topped out. The right project will start sitting under the roof and work out to two good crimpers at the jog in the white line in the photo. From there, use a good crimp to the crux topout. The difficulty on this one is to stay to left and avoid the good holds on the prow. Not really an eliminate because you would have to traverse to get to the prow. For the real testpiece, climb the tallest part of the face to the left of these two projects. Tim Kemple rappelled the face recently and declared it impossible.

The Warm Up Boulder

This problem is located on the left end of the warm up wall to the right of the Iron Cross boulder. It has probably been done as a standing start, however the sit start appears pretty hard, but doable. May "only" be around V9. The landing has probably been the main reason noone has really worked on this one, but it is more of a weird landing than a bad one. The landing kind of slopes down and away from the boulder, making it hard to get a good position to start. There is a sidepull for the left hand, and some candidates for a starting right hand hold. Part of the fun of any project is figuring out how it will go.

The Unnamed Boulder
This boulder is located about halfway between the Ship's Prow Boulder and the Try Again boulder, but much closer to the road than either of them. From the Try Again trail, this boulder does not look like much. The best way to get to it, is to walk around the right side of the Ship's Prow Boulder (from the trail) and follow an obvious trail to this boulder. Besides being able to name this problem, the first ascentionist will also be naming this boulder. First off, this problem is surely double digits, probably at least V12. Starts sitting on a small rock ledge, which makes the landing for the first move kind of weird, but the ledge is flat, so with pads the landing is fine.

A great starting hold, then move left to a slopey crimp in a seam, then figure out the big move to the sharp crimp. From the sharp crimp, move right to an easy topout. Although the left arete has been done, there may also be a project to the left of the first project (the dashed line in the photo). This one seems even more improbable than the right one, but who knows?

The Cave

During his first visit to Lincoln Woods, Dave Graham dispatched a long-time project in The Cave (below Mack's Traverse) in about an hour. This problem, which he named Shoot to Kill, started on the far left side of the cave, traversed under the roof using the underclings, came out to the bottom of Neil's Lunge, continued right, to the starting holds of the warm up problem, the nhit the crux involving some small, sharp crimps to get the the big slot. Since Dave's ascent, noone else has been able to link the moves. Just recently, during a strong attempt at the second ascent, Kozo Nozawa broke a key crimp near the end of the problem returning this traverse to project status.


Dave Graham on the first ascent of Shoot to Kill.

The Egg Boulder

The Egg Boulder is located on the left up on a hill about 1/4 mile past the Heart Boulder on the  spur road. As you walk up the trail to the boulder, you will see the "Rico + Norma" face. This unaesthetic face has a super hard project. Start sitting and climb the face on some of the smallest crimps at the woods. Tim Kemple has reportedly done a stand up start here. On the back side of the boulder, is Chemical, V9, and Neil's Nuts, V10, both testpieces in their own right. However, between them is a project which Dave Graham worked on for at least two days and mumbled something about it being possible V12. Start with your left hand on a crimp at the bottom of the seam and your right hand on a tiny crimp (one of the footholds for Chemical). Dyno up to the shallow dish just right of the seam, finish up and left. 

     

Disclaimer

Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.