Phillips, Maine

     What started out to be a relaxing long weekend for Lee and his girlfriend, turned into a bouldering session that produced two problems that would be chalked up at any bouldering area in New England. Here is Lee's story:

     While packing for my vacation, I was pretty sure that I wouldn't be doing any bouldering, but somehow my shoes and chalkbag made the trip. I've been visiting the town of Phillips for almost 20 years and always find a new adventure in the backwoods. However, I was ill prepared for the stellar boulders I would find along a shallow river while walking my dog one afternoon.
     I sighted the first boulder at a fork in the river. Carved out from thousands of years of water flow, this piece of white granite was virtually hold free. Upon closer inspection, a few possible features presented themselves. Back to the car I went to retrieve my shoes, chalkbag, and of course my trusty "Bubba." After a brief cleaning of the ubiquitous coating of lichen, the holds were ready for some chalk.

Lee Soares on the starting hold of Wet Dream, V4/5.

     The next major obstacle in my way of an ascent was how to keep my precious sticky rubber dry, after all, the base of the problem was a foot of running river water. After a short contemplation, it was clear that at least one shoe had to get wet. A plan was hatched. Take a big step in with my left foot, and then span the gap to the boulder with my right high and dry to the starting ramp. This allowed at least my right foot to be ready for a critical high-step later that would gain the top hold.
     With strong hopes of a first ascent, I had a spot from my girlfriend, Bobbie-Lee, who wasn't afraid to get her feet wet. I chalked up, took a deep breath, and then pulled onto the starting hold. I rolled through to the first crimp, then "splash," an inch short. Two wet shoes and dashed hopes gave way to a few more splash downs. Eventually, I get a solid bite on that crimp, I bring my right foot up to the starting hold dripping wet. However, thoughts of a broken ankle flash in and out as the topout comes into reach. A few more inches and I sink the hold and turn the lip. Bone dry, Wet Dream, is about V4, but with wet shoes it may be a bit tougher. Either way the problem is sweet.

     A few yards down the river I set my sights on one more pure line on a beautiful anvil shaped boulder, this one with a dry landing. A sloping rail and no footholds make this one move a pure power problem. Just pull and power up to the lip. Chinese Water Torture checks in at about V6, with a sit start that could rank among New England's hardest.
     To get to Phillips, take Route 95 North from Boston to the Maine Turnpike and get off at Exit 12 in Auburn. Take Route 4 North towards Farmington and Rangley. Signs along the way will lead you to Phillips. Look for Ron's Texaco and the High School just after pulling into town.

Lee Soares enduring Chinese Water Torture, V6.