Dave Wetmore is on fire these days and with the cameras of Back Mattress following him around the woods of New Hampshire, the results have been tremendous. Here, Dave makes a repeart of an old Dave Sharratt problem at Whitton Pond in Conway, New Hampshire called Jack of Diamonds. Dave initially thought this was an FA, but later learned that Dave Sharatt had sent this problem over 10 years ago. Either way, a cool video of a great looking problem. Enjoy!
Based on the success of last year's inaugural Iron Maiden bouldering comp (sorry boys, women only), MetroRock expanded the competition into two events. This past Saturday, the Newburyport gym hosted the first event which was attended by over 50 women of all ages. In the pro division, Bimini Horstmann took first, Zoe Leibovitch came in second, with Adriana Jacobsen taking the final podium spot in third place. Full results can be found here. The second event in the series will take place on February 28, 2015 at MetroRock's Everett facility.
Here's video of Bryce Viola's repeat of Work of Man, V12 and Super Normal, V11 at Beach Pond, RI. On Bryce's 8a.nu scorecard he gave Work of Man a V12 rating and said, "Incredible line from matt. One of my all time favorites."
The first of two Bouldering World Cup events in North America was held over the weekend in Toronto. Although U.S. participation increased with the proximity of this event, the results remained similar to the events in Asia and Europe. On the Women's side, Akiyo Noguchi of Japan won the event, with Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain further extending her overall lead with a strong second place. Six Americans competed in Toronto with Alex Puccio, the only American to make the finals, taking the third spot on the podium. Alex sits in the fifth overall on the season rankings. On the Men's side, Guillaume Mondet of France took first, overall point leader Jan Hojer of Germany second, and Canadian Sean McColl taking third. Vasya Vorotnikov placed highest for the U.S. men finishing 11th. Massachusetts boulderer Josh Larson finished in 27th. Click here to check out the video and photos from Gripped Magazine.
It has been a long standing joke among climbers at Lincoln Woods to watch out for the sketchy old men at the park. Although many jokes have been made, the reality is that Lincoln Woods has been known as a trolling ground for men engaging in deviant activities. After many complaints, the Rhode Island State Police recently arrested five men in a sting operation at the park. Hopefully, this will discourage these activities in the future. Click here for the Providence Journal article on the arrests.
Matt Giossi has been on fire lately, adding new hard problems in RI and CT. He recently took a trip down to Tennessee and Kentucky and continued his good form by quickly sending a couple V10s and a V11. Here is a little video he put together.
Matt Giossi has added a V11 dyno at Bates Woods Park in New London, Connecticut. Matt named the problem, Darlin' Dyno. Video from Height Films will be available soon.
In the Gunks, Bryce Viola has added a low start to the V9 Yikes. The problem, Yowza, checks in at V11/12. Here is a video of the FA:
If you are a regular on MountainProject.com, you may have noticed a lot of new boulder problems going up in the Waterville Valley area of New Hampshire. There has been climbing in this area for decades, but recently a dedicated group has been ferreting out new areas and new boulder problems with great regularity. You can check these locations out on Mountain Project. Back in September, Dave Wetmore made the first ascent of the crown jewel hard project in the area, naming it White House. The problem comes in at V11 and here is a video of the FA from one of our media spotlight crew, Back Mattress Media.
Although it is a far cry from what most of us do on a daily basis, the IFSC Bouldering World Cup events are our equivalent of the major leagues of bouldering. In the first event of the year in Chongqing, China, two Germans took home the gold medals, with Jan Hojer winning on the men's side and Juliane Wurm (recent winner of the ABS Nationals) winning for the women. What interests me most about these events is that, especially on the men’s side, U.S. boulderers (Graham, Woods, Webb, Robinson, and even Sharma when he chooses to focus on bouldering) are among the top in the world on real rock but the top U.S. men’s finisher in China came in 30th! On the women’s side, Alex Puccio finished a strong 4th but the next U.S. woman came in 26th. Is it lack of interest in this form of bouldering competition or do U.S. boulderers just suck at climbing on plastic? For a great video recap of the first event, check out EpicTV.com and for the full results check out IFSC’s website.
The Access Fund recently announced the first round in their Climbing Preservation Grants Program and two New England projects have received funding.
The Clifton Climbers Alliance received a grant to support their efforts to save climbing at Eagle Bluff, popular sport climbing and bouldering area in Clifton, Maine. The area was closed to climbing in 2013 and put up for sale. The grant is going towards the purchase of the land.
The Western Mass Climber's Coalition received a grant to improve the parking lot at Farley. The Access Fund was instrumental in the purchase of the land in 2007.
Click here read the Access Fund's press release for all the grants. While you are there be sure to join the Access Fund!
Pro climber Kevin Jorgeson (check out his website), in the area for a clinic and slideshow at Carabiners in New Bedford, spent a few hours at Lincoln Woods yesterday checking the place out. Since he didn't have much time, Kevin wasn't really in full attack mode, but nearly had a 2nd go send of Hueco Nightmares, falling after the hard moves. He likely would have had it next go, but had to leave to catch a train.
Last summer, the State of Rhode Island built a new parking lot, called the Sunset Hiking Trails lot near the Try Again boulder. This new lot provides great access to Try Again, Peace Dove, and Ship's Prow, plus Best Kept Secret, Ball Buster, and the Lost Crag across the road from the lot. The lot is located just west of picnic area 24 (on this map) on the loop road.
Sent to us from the amazing Height Films
Lucy Humphreys might not be a name you're familiar with, but after an impressive spring tour de force you should probably take notice. This 20 year old from Palo Alto, California is proving she's here on the East Coast to do more than just attend Rhode Island School of Design. Capitalizing on a dry afternoon, Heights Films accompanied Lucy Humphreys out to the Pond Cave in Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island. Back in January a key hold broke on Hueco Nightmare V10, making the problem a bit more difficult. Lucy battled her way through the new sequence of tiny crimps and technical footwork to prove she did not have to be scared of the Nightmare. Humphreys believes that this first re-ascent of the problem after the break has definitly bumped up the grade. Since Lucy has decided to stick around on the East Coast for the rest of the spring and summer, we're sure we will be seeing many more hard ascents and FA's from this quiet crusher!!!
This past weekend the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition held their annual silent auction to raise money for upgrades to the Farley parking lot and to preserve access to the great climbing in Western Mass. The auction raised over $9,000 smashing their previous record by over $1,000. Head over to climbgneiss.org to support this great organization!
As is often the case, one new hard line can spur on more development at an area. Matt Giossi's new V12 at Beach Pond in southern RI has appeared to have done just that with three new problems going down this weekend including a new V11, Super Normal, by Lucy Humphreys, a highball V3 by Marc Troob, and a V8 by Rockspot's head routesetter Mike Dominguez. Check out photographer Chris Motta's tumblr for some great pics of the new problems.
Matt Giossi has sent a hard new line at the Beach Pond bouldering area in southern Rhode Island. The steep line follows a line of slopey crimps and pinches to a big dyno and finishes up the classic Manhandled. Matt has named the problem Work of Man and has proposed a V12 rating. Matt had this to say after the send:
"I looked at this thing maybe two years ago said it was impossible. . . looked at it in the fall... said it was impossible . two weeks ago with the... help of a good friend found out that secret beta and worked my ass off to get the FA of one of the most amazing lines in new england . this was hardest thing to date i have ever climbed, physically and mentally!"
Height Films was on hand to capture the send and will be putting out a video soon...
On April 12, 2014 in Hillsborough, New Jersey, the Sourland Smackdown Bouldering competition will be held at the Sourland Mountain Preserve. Last year, more than 50 climbers took part in this free event. Sign up here to enter this event. You can also visit their Facebook page for more info by clicking here.