Joe McLoughlin

Iron Maiden - Everett

Continuing the success of last year's inaugural Iron Maiden bouldering comp (sorry boys, women only), MetroRock expanded this year's competition into two events.  This past Saturday, the Everett gym hosted the second event which was attended by over 75 women of all ages.  In the pro division, Lily Canavan took the top spot, with Bimini Horstmann in second and Mikalya Tougas in third.  Full results can be found here.  We expect there will be a highlight video shortly, and as always, you will be able to find it here.

ABS National Youth Championships

On the heels of the ABS National Championships and at the same venue in Madison, Wisconsin, USA Climbing held the ABS 16 National Youth Championships this past weekend.  Again, LT11.tv provided live coverage of the event.  You can check out the coverage by clicking here.  The Northeast was well represented with the following climbers finishing in the top 5 of their respective age groups.  Congrats to all the climbers who qualified as just making it to Nationals is a huge accomplishment at any age!

Zoe Steinberg, Philadelphia Rock Gym, 2nd place Female Junior (17)

Katherine Lamb, Team Central Rock East, 4th place Female Junior (17)

Lily Canavan, MetroRock, 4th place Female A (15)

Biminin Horstmann, MetroRock, 5th place Female A (15)

Ella Yolen, MetroRock, 5th place Female D (10 and younger)

Levi Tracy, Team Central Rock, 5th place Male A (15)

Innis Gallagher, Team Central Rock West, 1st place Male C (11)

Noah Wheeler, Philadelphia Rock Gym, 2nd place Male C *(11)

Lucas Oddi, Team Rock, 1st place Male D (10 and younger)

Brian Squire, Team Central Rock West, 5th place Male D (10 and younger)

The full results can be found by clicking here.

ABS 16 National Championships

This past weekend in Madison, Wisconsin, USA Climbing held the 16th ABS National Championships for bouldering.  Louder Than 11 provided live coverage on the web.  You can click here to see the full coverage of each round.  New England was well represented throughout with numerous competitors for both the men and women, Pete Ward as one of the live commentators, and Bryan Rafferty of Back Mattress Media as the event MC.

The live broadcast was really well done with great coverage of an exciting comp (they even had climbing commercials!).  On the women's side, it was clearly the Alex Puccio show.  Alex is on a completely different level than all the other U.S. women.  It will be interesting to see how Alex performs on the World Cup circuit as she seems to be the best U.S. hope for World Cup podium finishes on either side.  Alex dominated the women's finals with tops on all four problems with the exclamation point being the unneeded and only flash of Women's #4 (Alex had already wrapped up first after the first 3 problems).  This was Alex's ninth national championship, a mark that should stand for years to come.  Rounding out the podium were long-time competitors and clear crowd favorites Alex Johnson and Angie Payne.  Youth may be the future of the ABS comps, but on Saturday night it was one last hurrah for the old guard.

On the men's side, things were much less clear.  Daniel Woods had not been focusing on indoor climbing (he recently sent a new V16 in Bishop) and the semi-finals showed Daniel to be vulnerable in his quest for his ninth national championship.  For the locals, Josh Larson provided a cheering interest and did not disappoint.  For the overall comp, Mohammad Mahmodabadi took advantage of a new scoring system by being the only man to top out on problem #3 giving him the score he needed to win the overall comp.  Being an Iranian national, Mohammad was not eligible for the U.S. national championship.  Therefore, with his 2nd place overall, Daniel Woods was able to win his ninth national championship.  Michael O'Rourke was clearly the most powerful of all the male finalists but the technical nature of some of the problems cost him and he ended up third.  Josh Larson was the crowd favorite with all out efforts on all 4 problems and a near top on the 4th problem (he had one hand on the finishing hold but could not match) that might have won the day for him.  Being third American, Josh should be eligible to compete in the World Cup events.

Screenshot from the lt11.tv broadcast of Josh Larson in the finals at the ABS 16 National Championships.

Screenshot from the lt11.tv broadcast of Josh Larson in the finals at the ABS 16 National Championships.

Dark Horse Championship

On Saturday, some of the best boulderers in the U.S. were in Boston for the Dark Horse Series Championship.  In the women's Pro Division, Alex Puccio took first with Kyra Condie in 2nd, and Delaney Miller in 3rd.  For the men, it was Michael O'Rourke taking home the title with Rob D'Anastasio in 2nd and Mike Foley in 3rd.  Click here for the full resultsClick here to check out Garrick Kwan's photos from the event.

Louder than 11 has produced videos from the first 3 stops of the series and is working on a highlight reel of the final.  Here are the videos:


Pennsylvania Access Alert

Pennyslvania Access Fund Coordinator Bob Value sent us this alert to a threat to access for Pennsylvania climbing.  Please send an e-mail as outlined in Bob's message.  Thanks.

Pete Ziegenfuss on the Big Wednesday project at Haycock.   Photograph by Char Fetterolf.

Pete Ziegenfuss on the Big Wednesday project at Haycock.   Photograph by Char Fetterolf.

The vast majority of climbing in Pennsylvania is located on PA Game Lands, which hosts exceptional climbing opportunities at Haycock Mountain, Hunter's Rocks and Coll's Cove, to name just a few. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Wildlife Habitat Management is currently studying the feasibility of having the PA Game Commission implement a free permit system for secondary users of PA Game Lands—including climbers, hikers, and mountain bikers—who do not possess a hunting or furtaking (trapping) license. The permit system would allow the agency to disseminate educational and safety information and collect data from secondary users, but it would also close PA Game Lands to all secondary users, climbers included, for nearly six months during hunting seasons (except on Sundays).

 

Hunting seasons are defined as:

  • The last Saturday in September until the third Saturday in January
  • The second Saturday in April through the last Saturday in May

These proposed closure periods would prohibit climbing and other forms of outdoor recreation during some of the finest times to enjoy Pennsylvania’s Game Lands. While the Access Fund supports the goal of the permit system to disseminate educational materials so that climbers can safely coexist with hunters and help conserve the environment, a blanket closure during hunting seasons is unwarranted and unduly restricts a large group of PA Game Lands’ stakeholders. Across the country, there are many excellent examples of climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, paddlers, and equestrians coexisting with hunters during hunting seasons. And the free permit system also is an opportunity to incorporate secondary uses into Game Lands’ management decisions, and educate secondary users in a way that will preclude the need for closure periods.

We need your help to make climbers voices heard by Monday, January 26! The public is being asked to comment on the proposal, and you can submit your thoughts on this closure to the Pennsylvania Game Commission using our letter writing tool below. We have provided the following bullet points to guide your thoughts. In addition to personalizing the bullet points, tell the commission who you are, where you live, and why the game lands are an important resource. Finally, thank them for considering your comments.

  • I am supportive of the proposed free permits for Game Lands if they are accessible and easily obtainable by secondary users, and used by the commission to inform management decisions and educate secondary users on safely coexisting with hunters and trappers and protecting natural resources.
  • I do not support the extensive closure periods that are proposed for secondary users during hunting seasons. There are many excellent examples from across the country of state and federal game lands being successfully managed for multiple uses during hunting season.
  • Properly administered, a free permit system should effectively educate secondary users about safety and responsible use of game lands during hunting seasons, eliminating the need for a closure.
  • There are exceptional climbing resources on PA Game Lands, and rock climbers are important PA Game Lands stakeholders and provide economic benefits to local communities.
  • Rock climbers nationwide have proven to be responsible stewards of public lands, state and federal game lands, and are able to coexist with hunters.

Email BY end of Saturday to pgccomments@pa.gov

Denise Strempzek on Ms. Shagwell at Haycock.  Photo by Char Fetterolf.

Denise Strempzek on Ms. Shagwell at Haycock.  Photo by Char Fetterolf.

V16 in Bishop

According to Climbing.com, Daniel Woods has completed a super project (or mega project) on the south face of the Grand Pa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks in Bishop.  Woods has not given it a grade yet but it is suspected to be V16.  With this send and the finale of Caldwall and Jorgeson's work on the Dawn Wall, California has been the center of the climbing world lately.  Question is, could there ever be a V16 (or even a V15) in the Northeast?  Currently, we have three V14s.  Weigh in our message board by clicking here.

Dark Horse #1 - 2014

One of the most popular New England comp series started on Saturday with Round #1 of the Dark Horse series.  This first of four events was held at Metrorock's Everett facility.  With over 300 competitors at the opening stop, this sixth season of Dark Horse promises to be bigger than ever.  In the women's pro division, American Ninja Meaghan Martin beat Sage DeChiara for the top spot, with Zoe Steinberg taking third place.  In the men's Rob D'Anastasio topped a strong field with Andy Lamb taking second and Peter Dixon third.  Click here for the full results.  Stay tuned for an action packed highlight video coming soon.

Blackout Boulder Brawl Video

This past weekend Metrorock held their fifth annual Blackout Boulder Brawl.  Close to 200 climbers showed up for the comp/party and, as you can see in the video below, everyone had a great time.  On the women's side, Sarah Sternick took first in the open category, with Katie Lamb taking 2nd and Bimini Horstmann in third.  On the guy's side, Chris Dellarosa took first in open with Brian Nugent in 2nd and Alex Astesano in third.  Click here for the full results.

New V11s in SW Pennsylvania

Joel on The Golden Bough.  Photograph provided by Joel Brady.

Joel on The Golden Bough.  Photograph provided by Joel Brady.

American Ninja (the Vampire Ninja) Joel Brady and Sam Weir have been training hard lately and sent a few amazing looking hard problems over the weekend at Breakneck in Southwestern Pennsylvania.  They first sent The Golden Bough, a longstanding project that checks in at V11.  After almost sending the Nomads project, Joel added the 21 Gun Salute into PTSD for another V11 that he named Mendoza Express.  Scroll down to check out a video Joel provided from some working attempts on these projects.

Mike Steighner on 21 Gun Salute, V10.  Mendoza Express finishes to the right..  Photograph provided by Joel Brady.

Mike Steighner on 21 Gun Salute, V10.  Mendoza Express finishes to the right..  Photograph provided by Joel Brady.

Some footage from Joel of these as projects.

2014 Blackout Brawl

Blacklights, day-glo, weirdness, super fun and sick boulders! The best blackout comp in all the land returns for the 5th season at MetroRock in Newburyport.
Here's the deal:
DATE: October 25th, 2014
SCHEDULE:
3p - Registration Opens
4-7p - Redpoint Round
7:30p - Finals
PRICE: $35/general admission
Call to register (978) 499-7625...

Make sure to wear bright colors and wearing a costume gets you entered to win a door prize...what is it you ask? WEAR A COSTUME AND FIND OUT!!!

It's all about a fun atmosphere but the climbing is top notch (as is tradition) and we're all psyched to go bigger on our finals extravaganza!! This is a comp/show/event you do not want to miss!

Check out the highlights from last year for a glimpse into what's in store!

Western Mass Rendezvous Recap

The Western Massachusetts Rendezvous was held this past weekend with over 100 climbers attending the event from all over New England and even Canada.  As the Western Massachusetts Climber's Coalition main fundraising event, the Rendezvous raised over $5,000 to help the WMCC in their access efforts in Western Massachusetts!

Screeing of Valley Uprising at Central Rock Hadley.

Screeing of Valley Uprising at Central Rock Hadley.

The Rendezvous included a screening of Reel Rock's Valley Uprising and a dyno comp on Friday night at the Central Rock Gym in Hadley.  The competition on Saturday at Farley was a highlight of the Rendezvous with Katie Lamb and Kai Webler winning the bouldering comp and Wayne Burleson and Hillary Harris winning the routes comp.

On Sunday, 25 volunteers showed up to build a retaining wall and improve trailwork at Farley as part of the Rendezvous' Adopt-a-Crag event.  If you haven't already, please consider joining the WMCC to support the great work they are doing at some of New England's best crags!  Thanks to ActionInSolitude.com for the photos and you can check them out for a more detailed write up and more photos from the Rendezvous.

Jerome Boutaid on Tweaky Bird during the bouldering comp.

Jerome Boutaid on Tweaky Bird during the bouldering comp.