Dave Wetmore, Metro Rock's head route setter, may have the lowest profile of all the crushers in the Northeast. You don't hear much from him, and then, boom, a video comes out of yet another hard FA. This one, a new V12 Dave named Universal Disembodiment, is on a roadside boulder in a small area in Stoddard, NH. Back Mattress Media caught the send and produced this short video. Check out that sick dyno at the end! Looks like we need to update the Northeast's Hardest page...
This is a big weekend for plastic pullers, with two premier events on Saturday. Your biggest problem may be choosing which one to attend!
On Saturday, November 21, 2015, the first event in the inaugural Tri-State Bouldering Series (TBS) presented by SCARPA and Organic Climbing, The Brawl, is being held at the New Jersey Rock Gym. This is the first of three qualifying comps (#2 at Prime Climb on January 16 and #3 at The Cliffs at Valhalla on February 20) with the final being at The Cliffs at Long Island City on March 11 and 12. For more info, click here to check out their website.
Also on Saturday, November 21, 2015, the second stop in the Dark Horse Series is being held at Metrorock's Newburyport gym. Not only is this comp part of the Dark Horse Series it's also a USAC Local bouldering comp. For more info, click here to check out the Dark Horse website.
Check back here next week for results and media on these two events.
We reported a few weeks back that Mike Foley was close to sending The Fly, 5.14d or V14, at Rumney. Well, on Friday, Mike sealed the deal by sending the extreme crimpfest. Mike commented on Facebook: "Finally put The Fly (14d/V14) to rest! Lots of days and lots of tries. Even linked it into Côte D'Azure (13b) for good measure." The Fly is Mike's 3rd 5.14d. Check out the video below of Kevin Jorgeson's ropeless ascent of The Fly.
Bouldering season is in full swing (though it could be cooler) and we have a couple notable ascents to report:
Sam Enright has done the first ascent of Shadow of the Colossus, V12, formerly referred to as "The Cave Project." On MountainProject.com Sam commented, "All the hand hold are decent, but the feet and body position are strange." and "Hard if you're short, slightly less heinous if you're tall like me (I'm 6 foot 1)." This problem is located in The Swamp boulders area and Brian Nugent posted the following directions on MountainProject: "From Mouthful of Chalk, just walk to around the corner to the right of the problem and look for an opening to the cave formed by the Mouthful boulder as well as 2 or 3 other boulders." Unfortunately, Sam didn't get any photos or video of his send.
In the Gunks, Bryce Viola grabbed the second ascent of Extra Bacon, a V12 put up by John Kuphal back in 2011. Bryce commented that this problem was "among the hardest and best in the gunks" and took "the most effort I'd invested into a boulder in a long time." Check out the video of John on the FA.
If you had any doubt about which New England gym hosts the best competitions, this video should put to rest any debate. Back on October 24, Metrorock held their 6th Blackout Boulder Brawl. On the Women's side, Sara Evensen took first, with Adriana Jacobsen in 2nd, and Lily Canavan in 3rd. For the Men, it was Jesse Grupper with the win, and Josh Levin in 2nd and Brian Pardo in 3rd. Click here for the full results. Check ou the highlight video below:
Check out this great video on the first round of the Dark Horse bouldering series in Burlington, Vermont. Round 2 is coming up fast on November 21 in Newburyport. Click here to check out the schedule.
Yesterday morning, on a quick visit before work, Mike Foley sent the Rhode Island testpiece, Chelsea Smile, at Lincoln Woods. First sent by Ty Landman in 2009, the problem (formerly known as the Super Project) has only seen two repeats since Landman's FA. Phil Schaal sent it shortly after Landman, as the two had been working it together, and then by Paul Robinson on a quick visit to New England. Landman originally give it a grade of V13 (8B) but, in a blog post for Moon Climbing, also said it could be V14 (8B+). For his part, Foley commented on his 8a scorecard that the problem was probably V14 (8B+): "Finally!!!! A lot of days. For me, this feels like a step up from any other 8B I have every done. I'm hesitant to call it 8B+ but considering how long it took me and that it is exactly my style, 8B+ seems fair."
Shortly after Ashima made the 2nd ascent of Nuclear War, Bryce Viola climbed the problem as well. Bryce felt the problem might only be V13 as he has only climbed a few V13s. Bryce also commented that he climbed the problem differently than Ashima and that her way was way harder than his. Check out the video of Bryce's send!
Check out this cool video of Evan Race climbing the FA of at Snowy Mountain near Indian Lake in the Adirondacks of New York. The route, There are No Salamanders in Hueco, V11, is a hard sit start that finishes up the awesome V7, Never Been to Hueco.
The ever popular Metrorock Dark Horse bouldering series started last weekend with the first stop in Burlington, VT. On the women's side, Kyra Condie took the top spot with Kayla Lieuw in second and Bimini Horstmann in third. On the men's side, Jesse Grupper took home first, with Andy Lamb in second and Shane Messer in third. Click here for the full results. Also, click here to check out huge set of photos by Garrick Kwan. The series continues on November 21 in Newburyport.
Dark Horse schedule:
Dark Horse #1--10/10/15--Burlington
Dark Horse #2--11/21/2015--Newburyport
Dark Horse #3--12/19/2015--Everett
Dark Horse Championship--1/23/2016--Everett
Ashima Shiraishi has reported on instagram that she has gotten the first repeat of Nuclear War, a Matt Bosley V14 in New York. There had been rumors that this problem may have broken, but apparently it wasn't a broken hold keeping this problem from seeing a 2nd ascent. On the same day, Ashima also sent a V11, Reckless, and a V12, Wetness the Fatness, very quickly.
Dan Bates is a Connecticut crusher who has been travelling the world for the last few years. Dan recently visited Oman with Phillippe Ribiere, Read Macadam, and Miguel Willis. This crew found an amazing amount of rock and is putting together a film based on their experience. Check out the trailer for Valley of Giants below. The full series will be out in the fall, click here to check out the website for the latest.
Back on April 11, 2015, Rockspot held their first Boston Boulder Brawl at their new facility in South Boston. Vasya Vorotnikov and Nina Williams took home the top spots in the Pro Division. Click here for full results. Check out the highlight video below:
Though it seems like we went straight from 3 feet of snow to 8o degrees and humid, Kai Webler captured some great footage from Farley, Great Barrington, and Pawtuckaway this spring. Kai continues to put out no nonsense footage of great boulder problems all over in New England. We are convinced his goal is to video every boulder problem in the Northeast!
We recently reported that Nina Williams grabbed the first female ascent of Speed of Live, V10, at Farley. Nina has put together a great video of her many years of attempts and the big send. Check it out!
Voted the best V10 in the Northeast, Speed of Life at Farley is the king of king lines at one of the best bouldering areas around. First climbed by Dave Graham, the tall line with the stepped landing climbs a line of crimps up a beautiful overhanging wall of gneiss. On Saturday, Nina Williams, on a trip back east from Boulder, made the first female ascent of Speed of Life after working the line for 6 years. On her Facebook page, Nina commented, "A dream beginning 2009, and realized yesterday. I was initially drawn to its aesthetic line, intimidating size, and crimpy style. I stuck with it because SOL is truly a New England 'king line' and represented everything I loved about my home area. I became emotionally attached and single-mindedly threw myself at it a year before I moved, and the years afterwards."
On April 18, there will be two Access Fund Adopt a Crag events, one at Chapel Ledge in Massachusetts and one at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut, that climbers can volunteer their time at and show land managers that climbers are responsible stewards. These events are fun and are a great way to show some love to our great climbing areas.
Where: Chapel Ledge, MA
When: Saturday, April 18
Hosted by: Westfield State University
Details: Join the Westfield State University to help clean up Chapel Ledge! We will meet at 11:00am at the dirt parking lot at the base of Chapel Ledge. We will help to rebuild the trail leading up to the crag.
For more info, contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
Where: Ragged Mountain, CT
When: Saturday, April 18
Hosted by: Ragged Mountain Foundation
Details:The RMF Conservation Crew is a new effort to put in serious time repairing and protecting our cliff bases in Connecticut. We are looking for leaders to help us work with local climbing groups, civic organizations, and outdoor clubs to protect the places we love to play. We will be starting with the Main Cliff at Ragged, and looking at many future projects from there.
Meet at the Plainville Starbucks parking area at 8am. Wear boots and bring layers.