Pennyslvania Access Fund Coordinator Bob Value sent us this alert to a threat to access for Pennsylvania climbing. Please send an e-mail as outlined in Bob's message. Thanks.
The vast majority of climbing in Pennsylvania is located on PA Game Lands, which hosts exceptional climbing opportunities at Haycock Mountain, Hunter's Rocks and Coll's Cove, to name just a few. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Wildlife Habitat Management is currently studying the feasibility of having the PA Game Commission implement a free permit system for secondary users of PA Game Lands—including climbers, hikers, and mountain bikers—who do not possess a hunting or furtaking (trapping) license. The permit system would allow the agency to disseminate educational and safety information and collect data from secondary users, but it would also close PA Game Lands to all secondary users, climbers included, for nearly six months during hunting seasons (except on Sundays).
Hunting seasons are defined as:
- The last Saturday in September until the third Saturday in January
- The second Saturday in April through the last Saturday in May
These proposed closure periods would prohibit climbing and other forms of outdoor recreation during some of the finest times to enjoy Pennsylvania’s Game Lands. While the Access Fund supports the goal of the permit system to disseminate educational materials so that climbers can safely coexist with hunters and help conserve the environment, a blanket closure during hunting seasons is unwarranted and unduly restricts a large group of PA Game Lands’ stakeholders. Across the country, there are many excellent examples of climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, paddlers, and equestrians coexisting with hunters during hunting seasons. And the free permit system also is an opportunity to incorporate secondary uses into Game Lands’ management decisions, and educate secondary users in a way that will preclude the need for closure periods.
We need your help to make climbers voices heard by Monday, January 26! The public is being asked to comment on the proposal, and you can submit your thoughts on this closure to the Pennsylvania Game Commission using our letter writing tool below. We have provided the following bullet points to guide your thoughts. In addition to personalizing the bullet points, tell the commission who you are, where you live, and why the game lands are an important resource. Finally, thank them for considering your comments.
- I am supportive of the proposed free permits for Game Lands if they are accessible and easily obtainable by secondary users, and used by the commission to inform management decisions and educate secondary users on safely coexisting with hunters and trappers and protecting natural resources.
- I do not support the extensive closure periods that are proposed for secondary users during hunting seasons. There are many excellent examples from across the country of state and federal game lands being successfully managed for multiple uses during hunting season.
- Properly administered, a free permit system should effectively educate secondary users about safety and responsible use of game lands during hunting seasons, eliminating the need for a closure.
- There are exceptional climbing resources on PA Game Lands, and rock climbers are important PA Game Lands stakeholders and provide economic benefits to local communities.
- Rock climbers nationwide have proven to be responsible stewards of public lands, state and federal game lands, and are able to coexist with hunters.
Email BY end of Saturday to email@example.com
According to Climbing.com, Daniel Woods has completed a super project (or mega project) on the south face of the Grand Pa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks in Bishop. Woods has not given it a grade yet but it is suspected to be V16. With this send and the finale of Caldwall and Jorgeson's work on the Dawn Wall, California has been the center of the climbing world lately. Question is, could there ever be a V16 (or even a V15) in the Northeast? Currently, we have three V14s. Weigh in our message board by clicking here.
New England's own Josh Larson put an exclamation point on his 2014 by sending two V13s in Bishop. On Christmas Day, Josh sent the Buttermilker, an old Chris Sharma testpiece. On New Year's eve, Josh finished the year strong by sending Dave Graham's amazing Spectre Wonder what 2015 is going to bring for Josh... Click here to check out Josh's blog.
One of the most popular New England comp series started on Saturday with Round #1 of the Dark Horse series. This first of four events was held at Metrorock's Everett facility. With over 300 competitors at the opening stop, this sixth season of Dark Horse promises to be bigger than ever. In the women's pro division, American Ninja Meaghan Martin beat Sage DeChiara for the top spot, with Zoe Steinberg taking third place. In the men's Rob D'Anastasio topped a strong field with Andy Lamb taking second and Peter Dixon third. Click here for the full results. Stay tuned for an action packed highlight video coming soon.
This past weekend Metrorock held their fifth annual Blackout Boulder Brawl. Close to 200 climbers showed up for the comp/party and, as you can see in the video below, everyone had a great time. On the women's side, Sarah Sternick took first in the open category, with Katie Lamb taking 2nd and Bimini Horstmann in third. On the guy's side, Chris Dellarosa took first in open with Brian Nugent in 2nd and Alex Astesano in third. Click here for the full results.
American Ninja (the Vampire Ninja) Joel Brady and Sam Weir have been training hard lately and sent a few amazing looking hard problems over the weekend at Breakneck in Southwestern Pennsylvania. They first sent The Golden Bough, a longstanding project that checks in at V11. After almost sending the Nomads project, Joel added the 21 Gun Salute into PTSD for another V11 that he named Mendoza Express. Scroll down to check out a video Joel provided from some working attempts on these projects.
Blacklights, day-glo, weirdness, super fun and sick boulders! The best blackout comp in all the land returns for the 5th season at MetroRock in Newburyport.
Here's the deal:
DATE: October 25th, 2014
3p - Registration Opens
4-7p - Redpoint Round
7:30p - Finals
PRICE: $35/general admission
Call to register (978) 499-7625...
Make sure to wear bright colors and wearing a costume gets you entered to win a door prize...what is it you ask? WEAR A COSTUME AND FIND OUT!!!
It's all about a fun atmosphere but the climbing is top notch (as is tradition) and we're all psyched to go bigger on our finals extravaganza!! This is a comp/show/event you do not want to miss!
Check out the highlights from last year for a glimpse into what's in store!
Jay Conway, who may be New England's version of Clark Kent, recently made the first ascent of a V10 in Franconia Notch that he named The Eagle. Check out the video of this cool looking problem. Hopefully, there are more problems like this in the Notch...
Back in May, as reported on Climberism, Ken Murphy made the first ascent of an amazing V11 in the Adirondacks called the Gnar Wall. This past weekend, Evan Race grabbed the second ascent of this nominee for one of the best V11s in the Northeast, here's the video:
The Western Massachusetts Rendezvous was held this past weekend with over 100 climbers attending the event from all over New England and even Canada. As the Western Massachusetts Climber's Coalition main fundraising event, the Rendezvous raised over $5,000 to help the WMCC in their access efforts in Western Massachusetts!
The Rendezvous included a screening of Reel Rock's Valley Uprising and a dyno comp on Friday night at the Central Rock Gym in Hadley. The competition on Saturday at Farley was a highlight of the Rendezvous with Katie Lamb and Kai Webler winning the bouldering comp and Wayne Burleson and Hillary Harris winning the routes comp.
On Sunday, 25 volunteers showed up to build a retaining wall and improve trailwork at Farley as part of the Rendezvous' Adopt-a-Crag event. If you haven't already, please consider joining the WMCC to support the great work they are doing at some of New England's best crags! Thanks to ActionInSolitude.com for the photos and you can check them out for a more detailed write up and more photos from the Rendezvous.
Kai Webler, just posted a trailer for his newest project, The Northeast 3. Kai's no nonsense videos are packed with tons of great bouldering all around the Northeast and provide a valuable resource for beta on many of the hardest problems around. Based on the trailer, we expect the third installment to be as inspiring as the first two!
Dave Wetmore is on fire these days and with the cameras of Back Mattress following him around the woods of New Hampshire, the results have been tremendous. Here, Dave makes a repeart of an old Dave Sharratt problem at Whitton Pond in Conway, New Hampshire called Jack of Diamonds. Dave initially thought this was an FA, but later learned that Dave Sharatt had sent this problem over 10 years ago. Either way, a cool video of a great looking problem. Enjoy!
Based on the success of last year's inaugural Iron Maiden bouldering comp (sorry boys, women only), MetroRock expanded the competition into two events. This past Saturday, the Newburyport gym hosted the first event which was attended by over 50 women of all ages. In the pro division, Bimini Horstmann took first, Zoe Leibovitch came in second, with Adriana Jacobsen taking the final podium spot in third place. Full results can be found here. The second event in the series will take place on February 28, 2015 at MetroRock's Everett facility.
Here's video of Bryce Viola's repeat of Work of Man, V12 and Super Normal, V11 at Beach Pond, RI. On Bryce's 8a.nu scorecard he gave Work of Man a V12 rating and said, "Incredible line from matt. One of my all time favorites."