As is often the case, one new hard line can spur on more development at an area. Matt Giossi's new V12 at Beach Pond in southern RI has appeared to have done just that with three new problems going down this weekend including a new V11, Super Normal, by Lucy Humphreys, a highball V3 by Marc Troob, and a V8 by Rockspot's head routesetter Mike Dominguez. Check out photographer Chris Motta's tumblr for some great pics of the new problems.
Matt Giossi has sent a hard new line at the Beach Pond bouldering area in southern Rhode Island. The steep line follows a line of slopey crimps and pinches to a big dyno and finishes up the classic Manhandled. Matt has named the problem Work of Man and has proposed a V12 rating. Matt had this to say after the send:
"I looked at this thing maybe two years ago said it was impossible. . . looked at it in the fall... said it was impossible . two weeks ago with the... help of a good friend found out that secret beta and worked my ass off to get the FA of one of the most amazing lines in new england . this was hardest thing to date i have ever climbed, physically and mentally!"
Height Films was on hand to capture the send and will be putting out a video soon...
Massachusett’s Josh Larson had a strong showing this past weekend at the MEC Canadian Bouldering Championship at Coyote Rock in Ottawa. Facing a strong field including World Champion Sean McColl, Josh came out of semi-finals in 2nd place and only dropped one spot in finals to finish on the podium in third place. Check out the full report and photos here.
In what is believed to be a first for the area, MetroRock hosted the first all-female bouldering comp on Saturday. Dubbed the Iron Maiden, nearly 100 women turned out to compete. In the pro division, Angie Payne took home first, Lizzy Asher came in second, and Annalisa Flynn took home third. Click here to check out CruxCrush for more coverage and plenty of photos!
On February 1, 2014, MetroRock wrapped up the fifth season of their Dark Horse bouldering competition series with the finals at their Everett, Massachusetts facility. The series featured four events (one at each of their facilities and then the final at Everett). In the finals, Alex Puccio won a stacked women's division with Angie Payne coming in second and the young crusher Ashima Shiraishi coming in third. For the men, Rob D'Anastasio took the title with Peter Dixon coming in second and Vasya Vorotnikov taking third. Check out Louder Than Eleven's highlight reel here. The Dark Horse series returns in November 2014.
Back in January a hold broke on Hueco Nightmare at Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, making the problem a bit more difficult. NEB has learned from 8a.nu that Lucy Humphreys has made the first re-ascent of this problem and believes the break has bumped the grade up to V11. Here is a video of Lucy sending Hueco Dreams, a variation to Who Needs Hueco.