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Bouldering News-March
2000 |
3/28/00 Bishop, CA
Chris Sharma has sent a long
standing (20 year old!) project in the Peabody Boulders in Bishop, CA.
Formerly, referred to as the Wow Prow, Sharma sent this viciously hard blunt
arete after trying it sporadically. He named the problem The Mandala,
and although he did not rate it, many believe it is at least V13. Many, many
strong boulderers have attempted this problem over the years, while Mick
Ryan had identified it as one of
Bishop's
future testpieces. We will have more on this historic ascent in the coming
weeks. |
3/16/00 Cradle Rock, NJ and Haycock Mountain,
PA
At Cradle Rock, Pete Ziegenfuss
made a quick repeat of Funk Fuzz, V10, and suggests a grade of V8.
At Haycock Mt., Char Fetterolf added a sit start to The Egg, V5, upping
it to V7. Pete added Funky Fridays, V8, Donny Brasco, V7, The
Tainted Orb, V7, a sit start to Main Squeeze, and Under My
Thumb, V6, which is an awesome 15 foot roof with nice holds (which is
uncommon for the area). Char repeated both Funky Fridays and Under
My Thumb. |
3/12/00 Rumney and Pawtuckaway, NH
Joe Kinder recently sent Dr. No, 5.14a, at Rumney, after three
days of work. This is Joe's first 14 and hardest route to date. At Pawtuckaway,
Joe sent Dave Graham's sit start to Boulder X: The Headz
Ain't Ready, V9, and Dave Graham did the second ascent of Tim Kemple's
Revolution, confirming the original V10 rating. |
3/6/00 Fontainebleu, France as reported
on the
Australian
Bouldering website
Middlebury Vermont's own Matt Wilder has been having a good trip
to France. He flashed Douze B (Le Mur De Lamentation), 7b+
(V8/9), and sent L'arrache Couer, 7c (V9/10), 3rd try. Douze B
reportedly has a tricky topout which has caused several broken ankles. Stay
tuned for more on Matt's travels. |
3/6/00 Burbage South, Derbyshire,
England
Neil Bentley has done the first ascent of Gritstone's hardest route,
Equilibrium, E10 7a (U.S. translation: very hard and very
dangerous), likely the hardest traditionally protected route in the world.
Read the gripping tale at the website of
Slackjaw
Films (the makers of the Hard Grit video). Can't wait to see the next
video! |
3/6/00 Northern California submitted by
Aaron Rough
James Kim, perennial traveling climber, has been doing some strong
climbing around California coastal areas. First up was Owl Tor near Santa
Maria. This steep sandstone wall holds Better Than Life, 5.13c established
by Phil Requist. Steep hard pulls between pockets and a few bad crimpers
make up this areas test piece. James, always strong on pockets, dispatched
the route over 4 days. This is presumed to be the fourth and fastest ascent.
Next up was State Of Grace given 13c by Louie Anderson at Echo Cliffs
near Santa Monica. Slightly overhung, this climb heads up the impressive
White Wall. Finding absolutely no chalk on the overhanging wall gave James
the opportunity to figure out the beta that worked best for him. Another
four day effort ensued which culminated in the redpoint. This is the presumed
second ascent.
James Kim on So Far So Good, V7, Nut Tree Boulders, CA. Photograph
by Aaron Rough. |
Proving his versatility on the rock, James headed
for the Bay Area. Staying near Brown's Valley aka the Nut Tree Boulders,
James has repeated existing testpieces and established the hardest two known
problems to date. First was his cleaning up and establishing So Far So
Good, V7. With a sit down start on the Citadel's West arete, James punched
his way up heinous crimpers to a bad sloper, and then a hard match to pull
past the crux. Next up was Buy Me Dinner, V8, a low traverse covering
all of the Citadel's west face. A sit down start that cranks through fiendish
moves with a crux that consists of slopey crimps and a hellish lock off drop
down move that is guaranteed to give even the strongest climbers a run for
their money. Enticed by the prospect of getting a free dinner if he sent
it, James did it up moments before a thunderstorm sent locals running for
cover. |
Proving that man is on a mission for 5.14, Jailhouse
was targeted. Despite rain, wet holds, and a torrent waterfall, his first
visit was impressive. After warming up on Soap On A Rope, James did
Cell Block, 5.13a in two tries. Rain being driven sideways by heavy
wind cut the day short, but the saga continues with James reportedly working
on one of the area's 13cs in the upcoming weeks. Stay tuned. |
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3/5/00 Lincoln Woods, RI
Lisa Pierce sent a new problem on one of the Summit Boulders at Lincoln
Woods today. The problem, Ankle Biter, V5, requires a careful
ankle spot to avoid wedging your ankle into one of the blocks at the base.
Rio Rose and Brett Myers both sent a new dyno, Big
Sucka, to the left of the Buddha, which requires
a hard throw to a sloping lip. Previously unreported, Lee Soares sent
a wicked slab problem (previously pictured on the front page) on
the Improbable Boulder, which he named Jack Frost, V5. Joe McLoughlin
also added a new problem to the Improbable Boulder called Fading
Fast, V4. Jack Frost climbs the slab right of the roof on this
boulder, while Fading Fast starts on a low bucket left of the roof,
traverses right using the sharp pocket, then finishes up the left side
of the roof.
Left: Lisa Pierce toughening up for her
trip to Bishop by sending the first ascent of Ankle Biter, V5.
Photograph by Joe McLoughlin. |
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3/2/00 Hueco Tanks, TX
Dave Graham and Luke Parady recently returned from a two week trip
to Hueco where they both sent many hard boulder problems. Dave did the
fourth ascent of Diaphanous Sea, V12, while Luke nabbed the fifth
ascent. Dave also did the third ascent of Chbalanke, V12. Dave did
The Feather, V11, the first ascent of Loaded with Power, V10/11,
flashed Flying Marcel, V10, sent Full Service, V10, and onsighted
Sex After Death, V9. Luke flashed Notorious D.I.G., V10, did
The Power of Silence, V10, second try, onsighted Sex After Death,
V9, sent The Bloody Flapper Traverse, V9, and flashed Bettter Eat
Your Wheaties, V8. The pair also sent many V6 and V7 highballs around
the park. |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
does not assume any liability for your safety or well
being. |
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