Let's Be Fair...Rethinking Grades And Subjectivity
by Mike von Wahlde

So many long days sending projects at various areas, with various climbers, with various strengths and various body types have got me to thinking: the V system is fatally flawed.

Let's face it, the V-system, or the 5.? system only represents an exceedingly subjective manner of rating difficulty. What is called into play? Let's take it apart and look at these systems for what they supposedly measure...for size of holds, distance between holds, and the comparative usability of said holds in reference to the particularities of the route in question, all add up to the subjective rating of one of our already existent grading systems. These rating systems are excellent at what they do, compare problem to problem, rock to rock, hold to hold, but they leave out one very important factor in the equation: The Climber.

Humans are a varied group. Small, large, rotund or skinny, they run the gamut. While it is both unfair and untrue to group these individuals in a subjective manner in order to rate a given climb, it IS, however, possible to use data specific to one's own body to enter into a quantitative discussion on subjective difficulty of a given climb and equivocal difficulty of a given climb. How you ask? Herein resides the revolution.

Welcome The New Way
Any rating system is by its nature subjective, as we have already discussed. We often hear a shorter person complain that the route is too reachy, or a bigger person complaining that they can't stuff fingers into a pocket or can't support their weight on such a small hold. The simplest of ways to deal with these discrepancies: Build these factors into the rating system. How do I propose this be done? The following equation should be employed when one wishes to quantitatively rate any given problem.

{V(x) * C (y)}/ AI(z) = A(A)

When we substitute in X as the V (as long as we are discussing bouldering here)scale rating, Y as the climber's weight (in lbs.) and Z as the climber's height from the ground to the tip of an upwardly extended arm in inches, A becomes a real measure (rounded UP to the nearest whole number) of a send. It becomes clear that no longer do such variables such as litheness or excessive height or arm length can be claimed as unfair advantages.

The Ramifications
By using this rating scale, we might level the playing field so that trolls, monkeys, and French guys will no longer feel they are the rulers of the game. The occurrence of hairy-backed apes traipsing up six foot dynos with ease proclaiming V8 to be easy will cease. The bouldering world will finally have the level playing field it has long sought after. Think of the benefits: Dieting will no longer be en vogue, bulimia a TOTAL waste of time, and Stacker 2 will go out of business. Climbers won't wish they were taller, shorter, smaller or fatter. Just prettier and more amusing.

Yup, boulderers just might go out and boulder, saving the math for afterwards, at home, alone...which, at the end of the day, is the only place where grades really matter- to no one but yourself. But who are we kidding... I have sent A19, have you?

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