There have been a number of questions raised lately concerning the access issues at Farley. Farley is a climbing/bouldering area located in Erving MA. The Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC) hopes this will answer any questions you may have about Farley access.
Why was Farley "closed?"
Farley was never officially closed. The local climbing community, in response
to the concerns of the owner of the parking lot asked the entire climbing
community to respect a voluntary ban. So far, the community has responded
positively to our request.
Is the "voluntary ban" still in effect?
Yes. We are still asking climbers to avoid Farley until we can establish
a new parking area and access trail.
Who owns Farley?
Farley is all private land with multiple owners. Northfield Mountain/Northeast
Utilities owns some of the boulders and the left end of the cliff. Mr. Bucci,
whose house is visible from the "Tweeky Bird" boulder, owns almost all of
the developed boulders and the right end of the cliff. The middle section
of the cliff and the west-end boulders are owned by a couple that lives across
Rte 2 named Stewart-Schermesser. Mr. Ed Black owns the current parking area
and the approach trail.
What is the problem? Don't they like climbers?
Quite the contrary, they have stated that they are not bothered by some climbing,
but they do not want huge crowds. The main problem last Fall was too many
climbers using Mr. Black's parking area. Additionally, the landowners have
complains about climber litter, noise and speeding in the neighborhood.
Are there any other access concerns at Farley?
Yes, there are nesting Peregrine Falcons and Ravens. A number of shallow
drinking water wells surround the most popular boulders. Northfield Mountain
also has some liability and management concerns.
Nesting Peregrine Falcons usually mean closures, will that happen at
Farley?
We don't really know, yet. But it safe to assume that there will be seasonal
closures on the section of the cliff where the birds are nesting. This nesting
pair represents the first cliff nesting birds in the state of MA since the
50's so they are significant. The MA Fish and Wildlife is aware of the bird's
presence. Additionally, we have contacted Chris Martin, the head of the Falcon
Nesting program at Rumney for advise.
What's exactly has the local climbing community done to address the problems
at Farley?
We have formed the volunteer, non-profit Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
(WMCC.) Our goals are to keep climbing areas open and conserve climbing resources
throughout WMass. The members of the Board of Directors reflect the wide
variety of climbing styles that co-exist in WMass. We are currently writing
a charter, a set of by-laws and filling out the 30+ pages of the Internal
Revenue Service application form to become a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization.
Why do we need a WMCC?
The Coalition will allow all climbers to speak with one voice and develop
a relationship with landowners, land managers, and State and Town officials.
It will also help to organize the local climbing community in order to address
climbing related issues in the future.
Who's on the Board of Directors?
Pete Ward, manager of the NAC's Rock Gym, and "Big" boulderer; Jeff Squire,
Master's candidate in Landscape Architecture at UMass, Amherst; Ward Smith,
guidebook author and wetland scientist; Al Rubin, climbing legend and lawyer;
and Jon LaValley, ice climber and off-width specialist.
What other organizational things are being done?
Since the strength of any organization is its members, we believe that every
climber in WMass should be a member of the WMCC. We are in the process of
setting up a membership program. If there is anyone who has experience with
this, and would like to help, please contact the WMCC.
So far you've talked about organizational things; what has been done directly
concerning access?
Jeff Squire has been doing a fabulous job talking to everyone concerned with
access at Farley. This dialog is important because it lets us know the real
concerns of the landowners and Town officials.
To whom has Jeff spoken?
So far, Jeff's spoken with: all of the landowners previously mentioned, Town
of Erving, Erving Planning Board, Department of Environmental Management,
MA Fish and Wildlife, Access Fund, Appalachian Mountain Club, Franklin Regional
Council of Governments, Northfield Mountain Land Manager, Mt. Grace Land
Trust, Valley Land Trust and has had support from faculty members from UMass.
What did they say?
Both the Access Fund and AMC were supportive and offered their expertise
and may be able to help financially.
Northfield Mountain/Northeast Utilities has no objection to people using their land for recreation; however, liability is a major concern. They are also concerned about increased numbers of climbers using their property. From their perspective, if more climbers use the area, they will have to increase the management, maintenance and supervision of the area. They do not have the resources to support these increased activities.
The Town of Erving is very supportive. They are actively promoting the town's natural resources and seeking increasing recreational activity in the Town. The Town is preparing a future development Master Plan that stresses protecting open spaces.
The Stewart-Shermesser's support the use of their land for recreational purposes.
Mr. Bucci stated he had no objection to climbers, but expressed concern about noise, trash, and the nesting birds.
Mr. Black likes climbers and is happy that they enjoy the "ledges." He has serious concerns about noise, crowds and climbers speeding through the neighborhood.
What does the WMCC think is the best way to deal with the landowners
concerns?
Including the landowners as part of the planning process is a critical component
of achieving our objectives. Parking, noise, litter, and crowds are all concerns
they have expressed so far and those issues will be addressed in the Climbing
Management Plan.
Wow, maybe a new parking area and a new trail…when do we
start?
Before we can do anything, there is more planning to be done. We first need
to locate a site that is suitable. Then we will have to acquire the land,
design the lot, obtain the necessary State and Town permits. Only after all
of that can construction begin.
Since this process will take at least a year, we are seeking a temporary parking area and access trail.
You mentioned something about purchasing land, is some of the area for
sale?
While we would certainly be interested in buying either all or portions of
the cliff and boulder field; currently none of the land is for sale. As of
this time, we have no plans to purchase any land, nor do any of the landowners
have any plans to sell.
What's next?
Jeff Squire is currently preparing a Farley Climbing Management Plan. This
is important for a number of reasons. A well-written Plan will help demonstrate
the unique value of Farley to those who may not understand its importance
as a climbing resource. It will also address the various issues, needs and
goals of all involved.
Many successful Plans such as this have been written for climbing areas (New River Gorge, Red River, Gunks, Acadia, etc). Fully understanding and responding to everyone's concerns is the best way to protect access to Farley.
When the first draft is finished, it will be distributed to all involved for review. Copies will be posted and Jeff will be asking for your input. The whole process is involved and complex and the more input, the better the final result will be.
What can I do to help?
Right now, the best thing that climbers can do is to observe the voluntary
ban on climbing and new route activity at Farley. The landowners and land
managers are greatly impressed that the climbing community has voluntarily
behaved in a responsible manner. Let's continue to make a good impression
on them. You can also join the WMCC
by
clicking here.
How can I contact WMCC?
Our current E-mail address is
WMassCC@boulderingmail.com
Please feel free to contact us with any questions or suggestions.
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